Circle Tour

Photo credit:  Matthew Bruhns, Bruhnsphoto

This past long weekend we set out on our second bike tour together. This time I had a proper touring bike and a proper cycling cap - everything one needs for a successful bike tour. Like last time we set out from our front door, with intentions to end up back there three days later. Only one of us actually made it back under our own power - the other one (ahem - me) had to cheat ever so slightly by taking the bus up the big hill.

Friday morning we rose early, packed up the last few items into our panniers and set off to catch the Horseshoe Bay ferry to Vancouver Island. We rolled up with just enough time to grab tickets and coffees before embarking on the first of four ferry rides we would take over the next few days. 

The ride over was chilly and I stayed inside with our gear enjoying my latte and unexpected, yet welcome slice of lemon loaf while Matt snapped photos of the misty wrapped coastal range shrinking behind us. We arrived in Nanaimo and after braving the gauntlet of ferry traffic found ourselves on a dedicated bike path paralleling the busy highway. It ended abruptly in the midst of a shopping complex and we jumped on Route 19A (thankfully with a wide shoulder) and whizzed along until we could find a lesser road with less traffic. The tradeoff was more hills, as seems to be the case with all lesser roads.

For the next 6+ hours we rode our bikes, stopped to eat food, rode our bikes, stopped to take off or put on a layer, rode our bikes, stopped to pee and then rode our bikes some more. For lunch we found a sun-soaked cafe with an impressive smoothie menu. Then a few hours later we heard a cacophony from the road and stopped to see what all the commotion was about.

As we pulled off toward the noise we saw 50+ sea lions were in various states of repose on a raft near an oyster dock. We watched as they vied for real estate atop the overcrowded raft, barking loudly at each other (or nothing in particular). It was comical to watch, and I took the opportunity to shove another few coconut macaroons in my mouth.

As the day wore on it became harder to eat as much as I knew I should, and so the last 15km were a bit of a struggle. When we finally arrived at our accommodations I was ready to get off my bike, crack open the tall boy I had acquired at my last pee stop and get in the shower. Luckily our place was a reasonable walk from downtown Courtenay, and so we donned our street clothes and stretched our legs on the way to the Atlas Cafe. One beer was enough for me, but I thoroughly enjoyed (devoured?) my wild sockeye salmon burger with side caesar and our shared appetizer of inari pockets. One of the many benefits of bike touring is that you can eat anything and everything you want with little guilt or repercussion.

The morning came too quickly and even though I must have slept like the dead for at least 6 hours, I tossed and turned in the morning until it was time to get up. We took advantage of the oatmeal packets our hosts provided before rolling down the street to Starbucks for second breakfast. I stocked up on snacks (apple chips, peanut butter cups, beef jerky, a mini "waffle") and a latte, then it was off to ferry #2 which would bring us to the Sunshine Coast.

Again I hunkered inside, enjoying the rest of my latte and much anticipated breakfast sandwich. A short while later we docked in Powell River and pulled off to the side to let the ferry traffic go before heading up, and up some more to a local grocery store to stock up on supplies for dinner that night. Our next accommodations were not as close to town, and we didn't want to get stuck without dinner (all I can say is it's a good thing Matt had the foresight to stop because by the end of our ride I was pooped and we were nowhere near a restaurant).

The section between Powell River and Saltery Bay was not as flat as the route we rode the day before (nor were my legs as fresh), and so it was a bit of a slog to ride the 35km between ferries - not to mention the headwind we were battling against for most of the ride. Again we stopped to eat, pee and adjust layers. We raced each other down the big hills. I could overtake Matt to begin with, but he would pass me on the flats at the bottom. I guess my setup was more aerodynamic allowing me to gain more speed initially, but his overall weight would win out in the end. We passed the only other bike tourers we saw on our trip. We hooted, hollered and waved at each other as they bombed down the hill we were currently slogging up.

We rolled up to the Saltery Bay ferry terminal an hour and a half early, and so we took over one of the picnic tables and I took the opportunity to change out of my bike shoes for a while. With the large cleat in front, they are quite awkward to walk around in when off the bike. I watched the local avian drama unfold in the little bay below - a mix of gulls, ducks and herons upsetting each other into flight in turn.

We boarded our last ferry of the day and set off to Earl's Cove. Once docked we had (only) 46km to "the Farm", our accommodations for the night. Little did we know that for each kilometer there was a hill (or two) that must be climbed. There were a few fast, fun downhills that allowed my legs to recharge a little, but every climb was an increasing struggle. To my amazement I climbed them all (except for one that I had to walk up, for fear that I would topple over from exhaustion). Matt was kind, despite my quickly degrading attitude, and waited for me at all of the necessary turns, but we weren't riding within sight of each other at that point. 

Again, after a certain point I couldn't eat anymore even though I probably needed to. And then we were so close, so why would I stop? If there's one lesson I've learned from this experience, it's to stop and eat no matter how close I am to the final destination.

We arrived just as the light was beginning to fade. I stowed my bike, grabbed my panniers, took off my shoes, changed out of my bike gear and began to boil water for my tortellini dinner. It was the best tortellini I've ever had - it could have been ravioli from a can for all I cared. I hoovered most of the package, then laid down before making my way to the hot tub. Then it was a shower and bed. We stayed up late while we digested our dinner and the adrenaline from the day left our muscles. 

We slept in, but I awoke with a headache (grrrr). Most likely due to overuse of my neck and shoulder muscles from climbing so many hills the day before. We tidied up the place, said hello to the horses and were on our way (peeps in tow) to Sechelt for breakfast. We were hoping the cafe we stopped at on our last bike tour was open despite it being Easter Sunday, and we were pleasantly surprised. We were also pleasantly surprised to learn that the forecast had changed and we were in for another sunny day. The wind had even shifted so we would enjoy a tailwind on the way to our last ferry of the trip. 

After brunch we rolled down to the beach and settled in against a log to digest. It was breezy, but we were protected from the full force of the wind by a point to the north. We tossed rocks, searched for sea glass and finished our coffee while soaking up the sun. With each sip of latte my headache was lessening its grip and by the time we left it was all but gone. 

We both remembered the big hill that was in store for us between Sechelt and Gibsons from our last tour, but we motored on and up without too much effort. That being said, any side excursions that involved additional hills were out of the question for me. Matt honored my request and we busted out the last 35km to the Persephone Brewery where we installed ourselves on a patch of grass to enjoy the sun and some brews. It was family day at the Brewery, or so it seemed, and there were lots of people to watch. I shared a flight with Matt and finished off the last of my Jelly Bellies. And then as Matt put it... "it's all downhill from here" to the ferry (which of course is not true - there was a slight hill).

The ferry from Langdale to Horseshoe Bay seemed quick. I only had time to eat one and a half cookies and drink my secret energy elixir (aka a Coke) before we docked and were off on the last leg of our tour. I don't know whether it was all of the lounging around earlier in the day, or the accumulation of miles over the course of the past 3 days, but my left knee had had it by then. I tried adjusting my seat to see if it would alleviate some stress, but halfway home I decided it wasn't worth try to ride up the big hill. I made it to the bottom of 25th by overcompensating with my right leg to ease the stress on my left knee and waited for the 251. Luck would have it that it rolled up not long after I stopped and I finally got the opportunity to try the front-loading bike tray. A short time later I was delivered to the top of the hill and I cruised from the bus stop into our driveway.

Matt was already changed and had plucked our lawn chairs from the back room. With glass of wine in hand he posted up outside in the waning sun. I peeled off my bike gear, donned some cozy clothes and joined him with a bottle of Prosecco. We clinked our glasses, realized how chilly and hungry we were, and decided to head downtown to see what was open for dinner.

View my ride on Strava.